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Evihan is located in the heart of Istanbul’s artsy Beyoglu quarter, Cukurcuma (pronounced chu-KUR-ju-ma) has been flirting with gentrification for several years, its graceful but decaying early 20th-century buildings slowly getting face-lifts.

But the neighborhood, once home to a large Greek community, has managed to keep a balance between its original flea market charm and newfound respectability, with musty shops overflowing with Ottoman-era knickknacks next to new galleries and designer boutiques.

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